TALKS
«Pionieri» with Peter Moser
Peter Moser's great journey among the Pale di San Martino peaks, into alpinism legend.
The day of that August 10th, 2021 for Peter Moser begins very early. It is late at night when he leaves San Martino di Castrozza; with the headlamp in his head he climbs toward the Bolver-Lugli ferrata and before the sun sets he will be on the summit of the Piz de Sagron , which he has reached after climbing the Cimon della Pala, the Pala di San Martino, the Cima Canali, the Sass Maor and the Sass d'Ortiga. All in one breath.
Inspired by the pioneers of mountaineering, Peter concatenated six of the main peaks of the Pale di San Martino in a single day, following the historic routes of the first climbers. A confrontation on equal terms with the mountain, at speed but without haste, an intimate journey that Peter wanted to take to get to the roots of mountaineering and his being a mountaineer and mountain guide, where exploration and amazement at Nature are still possible. The same desire for exploration that drove the first british mountaineers to climb the Pale, accompanied by hunters and mountaineers from Primiero, which the film evokes precisely through one of the most legendary ropes that made mountaineering history. Mariano Lott and Antonio Zagonel, both mountain guides of the Aquile di San Martino and Primiero, take on the roles of two historic Primiero guides, as Michele Bettega and Bortolo Zagonel, while british client Beatrice Thomasson is played with british elegance and aplomb by Petra Lott.
Rounding out the tribute given to Peter's enterprise are the voices of Maurizio Zanolla “Manolo” and the mountaineering historian Luciano Gadenz.
Quando
Giovedì 28 settembre, dalle 18.00 alle 19.00


TALKS
«Burning the flames» a movie by Reel Rock with Barbara Zangerl
Big-wall climbing in Karakorum for italian climber Jacopo Larcher and austrian climber Babsi Zangerl who, in July 2022, realized their lifelong dream, after an unsuccessful first attempt the previous year: the free ascent of all 24 pitches up to 7c+ of the iconic Eternal Flame route, accomplished in 6 days on the wall for 650 meters of route on the stunning Torre di Trango - the Nameless Tower - to the 6251 meter summit elevation.
Thanks to the magic of the big screen, the use of drones and cameras placed on the walls, the film transports us from the comfortable armchair of the movie theater to loughs of mysterious and legendary charm, remote and unreachable except to the world's best climbers and mountaineers.
Quando
Giovedì 28 settembre dalle 19.00 alle 20.00
TALKS
«Still Alive» con Klaas Willems
Canclimbing save your life instead of potentially putting you in danger? That's the story of Klaas Willems, a climber with the La Sportiva team, who decided to tell his life story in the documentary Still Alivedue out next year and premiered during the annual Climbing Team Meeting in Val di Fiemme.
We could call Klaas a warrior, a survivor, perhaps a miraculous. A person who has seen death in the face not once but several times. Born and raised in Belgium, sick with cystic fibrosis since he was a child (a genetic disease that affects the lungs and digestive system), like his sister, who died in 2016. Today, at 36 years old, he should have been in heaven for about ten, according to doctors' predictions. Instead, he is the concrete example that when you can choose the fate that has befallen you, what Nietzsche calls amor fati, life always surprises you. Not only is he living with cystic fibrosis and reduced lung function, two rounds of chemotherapy and one round of radiation therapy. In this struggle for survival, his mind has never left his body. And this has been her real strength.
Today lives in Ulassai, in the central-eastern part of Sardegna. A small village with few habitants and clean air, it is in fact one of the Blue Zone, the areas of the world where people live the longest. There he can climb, challenging himself. Yes, because ever since he turned 18 climbing became the thing to live for. It would have been too easy to wallow in thinking about all the people who are better off than he is, and at the same time the world would have been too dark a place to be able to see the light. So, Klaas chose to focus on himself, grateful for his freakish but nonetheless life-bearing health, and to climb so he could look at the world from a privileged. For example, taking aerosol shots hanging on the wall of El Capitain, in Yomsemite, the myth wall for climber, instead of sitting on his bed at home. in Ulassai, together with a community of climber friends, he has opened many routes, now accessible to all. Every year he retries the route Neverwhere, the third he bolted in 2012, a 7b+, while 2018 was the time he freed the Tales of the rocking lizard, 8c, perhaps the most difficult route.
Quando
Venerdì 29 settembre, dalle 17.00 alle 18.00


TALKS
«Bridge Boys» un film by Reel Rock con Tom Paul Randall e Pete Whittaker
We had also met them through the film Wide Boyz. Famous for their passion for crack climbing and their penchant for bizarre challenges, british pair Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker tackle here the longest and hardest horizontal crack - the stuff of bigwall - ever climbed. Called The Great Rift, is an 800 meter long crack that runs along the highway viaduct over the Exe River in Great Britain. This route is the result of 80 pitches of sustained climbing of passersby, the traffic over their heads and the pain generated by each movement.
Quando
Venerdì 29 settembre dalle 18.00 alle 19.00
TALKS
Greenland, by Nico Favresse
Fresh from a transoceanic expedition, internationally renowned climber Nico Favresse, already present at the past edition of the festival, will tell a preview at VOCF 2023 about his latest adventures in Groenlandia, in the company of a unique team of climbers.
A mix of excitement, adrenaline, and fun, with unpublished images and musical interludes.
Quando
Sabato 30 settembre, dalle 17.00 alle 18.00


TALKS
«Ruga - a sign in the valley» un film di Marzio Nardi con la partecipazione di Federica Mingolla
Climbing as a tool for rediscovering a territory scarred by war, Kosovo. A documentary by Achille Mauri and Marzio Nardi. More than 20 years after the end of the conflict in the Balkans, Mauro Barisone, an italian climber, returns to the places that saw him as coordinator of one of the many humanitarian expeditions engaged in the reconstruction of the town of Pete, Kosovo. In that context he explores the walls of the nearby Rugosa valley, bolting some climbing routes and involving local communities. This is where the Ruga project starts: stimulated by Mauro's story, a small group of young athletes want to rediscover those places that were the scene of clashes, but also reconciliation, and through climbing bring new stimuli to revive the territory. The documentary is a cold look at a country still marked by hardship, which in the intact and wild nature sees an important element of rebirth.
Quando
Sabato 30 settembre, dalle 18.00 alle 19.00